Iraq – ancient history and a people moving forward
Before travelling to Iraq, most of what I knew about the country came from television news. Wars, sanctions, invasions and endless reports about violence had shaped my image of Iraq for decades.
Yet Iraq was high on my travel wish list. It is home to some of the oldest civilisations on Earth, and despite everything the country has been through, travellers who had visited recently spoke warmly about the people.
Against the Compass
This was my third trip with Against the Compass—Syria, Afghanistan, and now Iraq, including Kurdistan. They have specialised in tours to less-visited places. As readers of my blog know, I travel alone, but in certain countries, it feels safer to travel with a group. It is also nice to meet like-minded people now and then.
First impressions
Within a few hours of arriving in Baghdad, I realised that reality was far more complicated than the headlines.
At first, the people may seem a bit reserved; they are notused to tourists. But everyone we dealt with was so welcoming, and hotels and restaurants did absolutely know what good service meant.
The food was exactly the kind I enjoy: grilled meat, fresh bread, vegetables and endless variations of kebabs.
Everywhere we travelled, we saw signs of both hardship and resilience.
We saw neighbourhoods that had clearly suffered from years of neglect, conflict and underinvestment. Yet daily life felt surprisingly normal. Families filled the streets in the evening, cafés were busy and children played outside long after sunset.
What we visited
Baghdad – once the largest city in the world
Once it had a reputation as the “Centre of Learning.” Today it may bee a shadow of the great past, but they are still fighting for a better future.
Babylon, Iraq, and the forbidden photographs of Saddam’s palace
Babylon has been rebuilt several times throughout history. Much of the ancient city still lies buried beneath the ground, while many of the walls and structures visible today were reconstructed during Saddam Hussein’s rule.
Karbala, for Shias this is one of the holiest places on Earth.
We found ourselves in one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the Muslim world. As we entered the city, I suddenly caught sight of a golden dome glowing between the buildings. It was my first glimpse of one of Karbala’s famous shrines.
From biblical Ur to the Marsh Arabs
It was fantastic to see the biblical remains of Ur, where Abraham was supposed to come from, and then to visit the Arabs living in the Marshes. The Iraqi Marshes, are a wetland area in southern Iraq and southwestern Iran.
Samarra and the spiral minaret
We could admire the Great Mosque of Samarra. The scale of it is hard to imagine. Today only the outer walls remain, together with the stone bases where the massive columns once stood. It was once the largest mosque in the world and is now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Mosul
Mosul is the second largest city in Iraq. Large parts of the city are in ruins. Today, the people are trying to get back to everyday life
Lalish and the Yazidis
Most people have never heard about the Yazīdīs. The religion itself has roots that go back perhaps 6000 years. Lalish Temple is considered the main temple of the Yazīdī religion, and it is a unique spot with silence, calm, fresh air, greenery, trees, and domes.
Erbil
Erbil, also called Hawler, is the capital and most populated city in the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. The ancient Citadel of Erbil and Mudhafaria Minaret are at the city’s heart.
Iraq is not an easy country to understand.
It is a place where ancient civilisations, religious traditions, political conflicts and modern life all exist side by side.
I arrived expecting history. I found that, of course. But what I remember most are the people who welcomed us, shared meals with us and showed us a country trying to move forward despite everything it has been through.
