From biblical Ur to the Marsh Arabs of southern Iraq
There is something special about visiting a place you have heard about since childhood. For me, Ur was one of those places. Long before I became interested in travel, archaeology or history, I had heard the name through stories about Abraham and the origins of the great monotheistic religions.
Later that same day, we would continue into the Iraqi Marshes, a unique wetland stretching across southern Iraq and into neighbouring Iran. Together, these two places offered a fascinating contrast between the distant past and a traditional way of life that still survives today.
The Great Ziggurat of Ur
After our overnight stay in Karbala, we faced a long drive south. Fortunately, the itinerary was well planned, and we arrived at Ur just before sunset.
The Great Ziggurat rose from the flat landscape with almost nothing around it to compete for attention. There was simply no way to miss it.
This enormous brick structure is one of the most important surviving monuments from ancient Mesopotamia. Built in massive terraces with ceremonial stairways leading upward, it was designed as a temple complex where priests believed they could communicate with the gods.
Whether you believe the traditions connecting Abraham to Ur or not, it is impossible not to be impressed by what was achieved here thousands of years ago. Like the pyramids of Egypt, the Ziggurat stands as a reminder that ancient people were capable of extraordinary engineering and construction.
Today, the Ziggurat is the main structure that remains, together with excavated foundations and traces of the ancient city that once surrounded it. Standing there, it is difficult to imagine that this was once one of the great urban centres of the ancient world.
Unfortunately, the central staircase was closed because of concerns about structural stability. Visitors could climb it a few years ago, so that was a little disappointing. Still, seeing the monument in person was an unforgettable experience.
To the Marshes
The following stage of our journey could hardly have been more different.
The Mesopotamian Marshes form one of the largest wetland ecosystems in the Middle East. This unique landscape is home to the Marsh Arabs, a people who have developed a way of life closely adapted to the surrounding water and reeds.
They harvest reeds as building materials, raise water buffaloes and cultivate crops suited to the wet environment.
Because of a hotel booking problem, our group was given two choices: drive a considerable distance and stay in a conventional hotel, or spend the night on the floor of a traditional mudhif, a large communal reed house.
We chose the mudhif.
Comfort was certainly not the main attraction. There were no private rooms, no modern facilities and not much sleep. Yet it became one of the most memorable nights of the entire trip.
After days of desert landscapes, we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by water, green reeds and buffaloes.
A fragile way of life
This unique culture almost disappeared during the 1990s.
Many opponents of Saddam Hussein sought refuge in the Marshes, and the government responded by draining large areas of the wetlands. As the water disappeared, so did much of the traditional way of life.
Since the early 2000s, efforts by the Iraqi government, the United Nations and international organisations have helped restore large parts of the ecosystem.
Today, visitors can once again experience a landscape that for centuries supported a distinct culture unlike any other in the region.
Life on the water
The next morning, we set out early while the air was still cool and the shadows stretched across the water.
Travelling by boat through the maze of waterways was an experience in itself. Reeds lined the channels, and small islands with clusters of houses appeared unexpectedly around bends.
We stopped on one of these islands for a traditional breakfast consisting of flatbread, buffalo-milk yoghurt and honey. At the same time, we learned more about local traditions and everyday life.
As we travelled through the Marshes, I could not help thinking about the Uros people on Lake Titicaca in Peru. They also use reeds as their primary building material. Beyond that, however, the similarities largely end.
I am fully aware that part of what we experienced was designed for visitors. Tourism has become one way for local families to preserve traditions while also creating an income. Even so, there was no doubt that what we saw was rooted in a genuine and very distinctive culture.
Hospitality and traditions
The people we met were incredibly welcoming.
Our guide for the day was the head of a large family with fifteen children. He spoke passionately about the importance of passing traditions on to the next generation. The community even has its own language.
We got a small glimpse of this culture when he sang for us while we were still sitting in the boats, drifting through the reeds.
This way of life feels incredibly distant from our modern urban existence. Yet spending time among the Marsh Arabs gave me a glimpse of a culture that has survived against remarkable odds.
Visiting Ur connected me with the distant past. Visiting the Marshes reminded me that living traditions can be just as fascinating as ancient ruins.
Part of my Iraq and Kurdistan series
Start with the overview article:
