Erbil, the capital of a country that does not exist
Our journey through Iraq and Kurdistan was slowly coming to an end. We still had a few fascinating stops ahead of us before reaching Erbil, the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. Although Kurdistan is officially part of Iraq, entering the region feels a little like crossing into another country. Separate visa rules apply, and the border crossing takes time and patience. After nearly two weeks in Iraq, however, we had become accustomed to such procedures.
What struck me most was not the paperwork, but the language. Arabic suddenly gave way to Kurdish, a language more closely related to Persian than Arabic. It was a reminder that we were entering a region with its own identity, history and culture.
Amedi – the city on the mountain
According to local traditions, the Three Wise Men may have passed through Amedi on their journey to Bethlehem.
Whether the story is true or not, the setting is certainly memorable.
As we approached, it seemed to rise straight out of the landscape.
The ancient Bahdinan Gate still stands at the entrance to the town. Modern traffic uses a different route today, but the old gateway remains an impressive reminder of Amedi’s long history.
The town itself is pleasant enough, but it is really the location that leaves the strongest impression.
Shanidar Cave
Our next stop required a little more effort.
Shanidar Cave is famous for one of the most important archaeological discoveries in the Middle East. In 1953, archaeologists uncovered the remains of several Neanderthals here.
Over time, the remains of seven adults and two infants were found inside the cave. They are believed to be between 35,000 and 65,000 years old.
Excavations are still ongoing, and researchers have not completely ruled out the possibility of finding more remains.
Standing in front of the enormous cave entrance, it was fascinating to think that humans had sheltered here tens of thousands of years before recorded history began.
Erbil
Eventually, we arrived in Erbil, also known as Hawler.
Like so many places in this part of the world, Erbil claims an astonishingly long history. The city has been continuously inhabited for thousands of years and is often considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth.
At its heart stands the Citadel of Erbil, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that dominates the skyline. Unfortunately, large parts of the Citadel were closed for restoration during our visit.
My biggest disappointment was missing the Kurdish Textile Museum, which is located inside the Citadel. The Kurds have maintained traditional clothing to a much greater extent than many other groups in Iraq, and I would have enjoyed learning more about those traditions.
Even so, traditional dress was easy to spot around the markets, particularly among older men.
I also noticed that the way Kurdish men tie their headscarves differs from what I had seen elsewhere in Iraq.
Around the city
One of our first stops was Minare Park, home to the Mudhafaria Minaret.
This elegant brick tower is all that remains of a much larger mosque complex. The intricate brickwork and decorative details make it one of Erbil’s most recognisable landmarks.
The surrounding park contains statues of writers, philosophers and historical figures. When we visited, it was surprisingly quiet, giving the place a calm and reflective atmosphere.
We also visited the Syriac Heritage Museum in Erbil’s Christian quarter.
The museum is relatively small, but it tells the story of the many cultures, religions and communities that have shaped this region over the centuries. A local historian and a priest worked together to establish the museum, and their enthusiasm was evident throughout the exhibition.
The visit was a reminder of just how intertwined the region’s different religions and cultures have always been.
Jalil Khayat Mosque
One final highlight was the Jalil Khayat Mosque.
Although it is only about twenty years old, it is one of the most impressive mosques in Kurdistan. The colourful interior, stained-glass windows and enormous chandelier create a spectacular display.
To my eyes, it occasionally bordered on being a little kitschy, but there is no denying that it is visually stunning.
A fitting ending
This was the final stop on our journey through Iraq and Kurdistan.
Travelling in a group means you sometimes have fewer opportunities for one-on-one encounters with local people, making it harder to fully understand the subtle differences between regions.
Still, Erbil felt slightly different from the cities we had visited further south. The atmosphere seemed calmer, and people appeared a little more relaxed.
Looking back, every stop on this journey had its own story to tell.
Baghdad, Karbala, Babylon, Ur, the Marshes, Lalish, Mosul and finally Erbil.
Each place revealed a different side of Iraq.
Before travelling here, I expected history. I certainly found that. What I did not expect was to encounter so much resilience, hospitality and diversity along the way.
Part of my Iraq and Kurdistan series
Start with the overview article:
