Northern Ireland: From Troubles to Trails – Belfast
I could begin by saying that I had always wanted to visit Northern Ireland, but that would be a lie. I do not know many people who have travelled there on holiday, even though...
Silver Queer Travel light My blog post
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Egypt Without a Guide: Alexandria, Libraries and the Mediterranean
After several days among pyramids, tombs, and ancient monuments, I was ready for something completely different. One of the main reasons I had travelled to Alexandria was the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. Long before I visited...
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Egypt Without a Guide: Two Days in the Heart of Cairo
Egypt’s ancient monuments are impressive, but sooner or later, every visitor ends up back in Cairo. Cairo is one of the most famous cities in North Africa, and certainly one of the largest. Most...
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Egypt Without a Guide: The First Pyramids at Saqqara and Dahshur
After my days in Giza, it was time to travel even further back in history. I wanted to visit the very first pyramids built in ancient Egypt, and my destination was Saqqara. To get...
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Egypt Without a Guide: Giza Beyond the Souvenir Stalls
I had been to Egypt before, as part of an organised tour. We stayed in Hurghada, cruised the Nile from Luxor to Aswan, and visited Abu Simbel. Those were enjoyable trips, and the days...
From Berber Granaries to Roman Ruins: On the Way to Sabratha
From Berber culture to Roman grandeur On the way from Ghadames to Sabratha, we stopped at two historical sites: Qasr al-Haj and Qasr Nalut. Both were built by the Berbers for the same purpose,...
Ghadames, Libya: The Hidden Oasis City Where Women Walked the Rooftops
Ghadames is one of the most unusual places I have visited.Not because of what is there, but because of how it was built to survive. An entire old town, now abandoned, yet still maintained....
Leptis Magna, Libya: Silence on a Grand Scale
First Impressions Leptis Magna is not subtle. The first thing that strikes you is the scale.The second is the silence. After leaving Tripoli, we arrived at what must be one of the most remarkable...
Tripoli, Libya: A City You’re Not Meant to Visit
First Impressions Tripoli is not a place most people casually travel to.Which is exactly why I wanted to see it for myself. My preferred travel company, Against the Compass, has been running trips to...
Havana – Not Quite Falling Apart, Not Quite Standing Still
Part of: Cuba – A Country That Doesn’t Quite Move Like the Rest of the World First Impressions Havana is not a city that tries to make things easy for you. It doesn’t try...
Lofoten on Foot: From Å to Svolvær — A Complete Journey
Lofoten wasn’t meant to be a single journey. It started as a series of walks — from Å to Svolvær, with detours, loops, and the occasional questionable decision. Somewhere along the way, it became...
Santa Clara – From Oxen to Che
Part of: Cuba – A Country That Doesn’t Quite Move Like the Rest of the World Some places pull you in for reasons you can’t quite explain. For me, Santa Clara was one of...
Trinidad – A Colonial Town That Refuses to Fade
Part of: Cuba – A Country That Doesn’t Quite Move Like the Rest of the World Some places try very hard to be charming. Trinidad doesn’t really have to try at all – and...
Cienfuegos – The Pearl of the South, and a Different Cuba
Part of: Cuba – A Country That Doesn’t Quite Move Like the Rest of the World Cienfuegos was the destination.But getting there meant passing through places that carry a very different kind of weight....
Camagüey – A City Designed to Get Lost In
Part of: Cuba – A Country That Doesn’t Quite Move Like the Rest of the World Most Cuban cities cling to the coastline, benefiting from a constant breeze and a view of the sea....
