Karbala, for Shias this is one of the holiest places on Earth.

We arrived in Karbala after dark. The city centre is largely car-free, so our bus had to drop us off at one of the gates. From there, we carried our luggage through security checkpoints and walked to the hotel.

This was the third day of our journey through Iraq and Kurdistan. Earlier that morning, we had explored Babylon. By evening, we found ourselves in one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the Muslim world.

The first glimpse

As we entered the city, I suddenly caught sight of a golden dome glowing between the buildings. It was my first glimpse of one of Karbala’s famous shrines.

Security was strict. Luggage was scanned and visitors were searched before entering. Iraq is generally less strict about clothing than many people imagine, but Karbala is different. As a holy city, women are expected to dress conservatively even on the streets surrounding the shrines.

Pilgrims arriving

What fascinated me most was not the architecture but the people.

Families arrived carrying bags and suitcases, many clearly visiting for the first time. Children looked excited, while adults seemed almost emotional as they approached the shrines. Looking at their faces, I could sense that this journey meant far more than an ordinary holiday.

For many, this may have been a trip they had planned and saved for over many years.

As someone without a religious faith, I could not share their spiritual excitement, but I could understand the feeling. It reminded me of finally reaching Machu Picchu after six days of hiking through the Andes. Different reasons, perhaps, but the same sense of anticipation and fulfilment.

Why Karbala matters

Karbala is one of the holiest cities in Shia Islam. It was here that Hussein ibn Ali, grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, was killed in the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. His death became a defining event in Shia history, and today millions of pilgrims visit the city every year.

The two most important sites are the shrines of Hussein and his brother Abbas, which stand only a few hundred metres apart.

Gold, mirrors and crystal

Over the years, I have visited many mosques across the Muslim world. Some are remarkably simple, while others are astonishingly elaborate.

The shrines in Karbala definitely belong to the second category.

Gold-covered structures, mirrored walls, intricate tilework and enormous crystal chandeliers create an almost overwhelming visual experience. It is impossible not to be impressed by the craftsmanship and the scale of the decoration.

Yet what surprised me most was the atmosphere. Away from the tombs themselves, people sat in groups talking, resting and spending time together. The shrines felt not only like places of worship but also like community gathering places.

A funeral procession

While visiting the shrine complex, I witnessed something I had never seen before.

Several funeral processions passed through the crowds carrying coffins on their shoulders. According to local tradition, it is considered a blessing for the deceased to be brought close to the shrines.

The processions moved quickly through the crowd, creating brief moments of urgency in an otherwise calm atmosphere. One coffin was draped in the Iraqi flag as mourners carried it toward the shrine.

It was a powerful reminder that this place is not only about history and pilgrimage, but also about life, death and faith in the present day.

Life around the shrines

The large square between the shrines was packed with people, even though locals described it as a relatively quiet evening.

Families sat together chatting and eating. Pilgrims rested under covered walkways fitted with fans and misting systems to provide relief during the intense summer heat. Some people were preparing to spend the night there.

I also noticed places distributing free meals to visitors and those in need.

Before visiting Iraq, Karbala was little more than a name to me. Twenty-four hours later, I still knew very little about the finer points of Shia theology, but I had gained a much better understanding of why millions of people are drawn here.

The golden shrines were impressive, but what stayed with me most was the atmosphere: the devotion, the anticipation and the strong sense of community surrounding one of the holiest places in the Shia world.

Part of my Iraq and Kurdistan series

Start with the overview article:

Iraq – a country trying to rise again