Not much of the Assyrian grandeur remains in Mosul
Mosul was one of those names that appeared constantly in the news for years. Then, almost suddenly, it disappeared from the headlines.
For many people, Mosul became synonymous with war, ISIS and destruction. Yet long before that, it was one of the most important cities in the region, built on top of ancient Nineveh, once one of the largest cities in the world and the capital of the Assyrian Empire.
When we arrived, I expected to see destruction. I was not prepared for the scale of it.
A city still carrying its scars
Historically, Mosul occupied a strategic position along important trade routes and grew into a major commercial centre.
Today, large parts of the old city remain in ruins.
Street after street is lined with collapsed buildings, shattered walls and piles of rubble. As our guide explained, one of the saddest thoughts is that beneath some of this debris there may still be people who never received a proper burial.
It is easy to forget how recently all of this happened. It was only in 2016 and 2017 that an international coalition finally drove ISIS out of the city after months of intense fighting.
As we walked through the old streets, we noticed the word SAFE painted on many buildings. Such a simple word, yet also a reminder of how recently this city was a battlefield.
This is not unique to Mosul. Similar scenes can be found in many parts of the Middle East and elsewhere in the world. It reminded me very much of Aleppo when I visited Syria. Still, it is difficult to remain unaffected when you see half a children’s room hanging above a street, with drawings still visible on the walls.
Rebuilding a city
Among the ruins, signs of recovery are beginning to appear.
UNESCO has become heavily involved in restoring parts of the historic city and training local craftsmen to rebuild damaged buildings using traditional methods. Their goal is not only to restore structures but also to help revive the spirit of Mosul.
Religious buildings suffered greatly during the conflict. Many churches and mosques were damaged or destroyed, and restoration work is still ongoing.
One of the most impressive projects is taking place in the Christian quarter, where several historic churches are being rebuilt with support from UNESCO and international partners, including Saudi Arabia.
Walking through these areas, it was impossible not to admire the determination of the people working to bring their city back to life.
An unexpected evening
Later, we visited a small local museum.
The collection itself was modest, but the staff were genuinely delighted that visitors had come. They proudly showed us traditional clothing and encouraged us to try some of it on for photographs. I suspect they enjoyed it even more than we did, but it created some genuinely funny moments.
Next door was a small book café where we were invited in for tea.
A local musician played drums and sang while people gathered around. What struck me most was how quickly everyone joined in. Smiles appeared, hands started clapping, and suddenly the room was full of energy.
That kind of spontaneous enthusiasm is something I rarely see back home.
At one point, we were encouraged to contribute ourselves. Our group was so international that finding a common song proved impossible. A Portuguese couple sang a traditional song from their country, and since I am usually not difficult to persuade, I ended up singing a Norwegian one.
It turned into a surprisingly memorable evening.
Looking towards the future
As we left Mosul the following morning, we passed a huge mosque still under construction. The project was originally started during Saddam Hussein’s rule, and there is apparently still debate about what the completed mosque should be called.
Looking out from the bus window, I found myself thinking about everything I had seen.
Would I recommend Mosul to other travellers?
It is certainly not a holiday destination in the traditional sense.
Yet few places have left such a strong impression on me.
One day, many of the ruins will probably be gone. What I will remember are the people we met and their determination to rebuild their city and move forward.
Mosul has suffered enormously, but it also showed me something else: how remarkably resilient people can be when faced with the task of starting over.
Part of my Iraq and Kurdistan series
Start with the overview article:
