Baghdad, once the largest city in the world.
Before travelling to Iraq, Baghdad was one of those cities I felt I already knew. For decades, television news had shown wars, bombings and political turmoil. Yet Baghdad was once the largest city in the world and one of history’s greatest centres of learning.
As the first stop on our journey through Iraq and Kurdistan, I was curious to see how much of that famous city remained today.
The old city
Walking through the old city, I felt I was seeing two Baghdads at once. Some buildings looked close to collapse, while market life continued much as it has for generations. Despite years of hardship, the souks were still full of colour, spices and everyday activity.
Symbols of Saddam’s regime
The Hands of Victory are a pair of hands holding swords crossed triumphantly. Saddam Hussein built these arches to celebrate the self-proclaimed victory over Iran. There was a controversy in 2007 when the Prime Minister of Iraq wanted to demolish them. However, the US Ambassador was against it so that the Shia and Sunni divisions would not explode once again. Whatever it may celebrate, it is a very strong symbol, and peace is not the word that comes to mind.
The Martyrs Monument was dedicated initially to the Iraqi soldiers killed in the Iran-Iraq War and has since grown to become generally considered a commemoration of all Iraqi martyrs. This monument was closed to the public, but our guide had connections and got us there for fifteen minutes. You can see the size in the picture compared to the small people.
Iraq Museum
We did also find time to visit the Iraq Museum in Baghdad. It was reopened in 2015, and despice all the stolen artefacts during the occupation, it still has a vast collection, so after a few hours, you feel your head can not take any more today. But absolutely worth the visit.
One Mosque in Baghdad
We visited Al-Kazzimiyya Mosque in Baghdad, which is both a Mosque and a Shrine. It is a Shia Islamic mosque and contains the tombs of essential Imams of their religion. It is a vast complex, and it is evident that it is essential to the Shias. The Shia mosques are the most decorated, with shining ceilings, walls, and a lot of gold. It is imposing.
Looking ahead
The Central Bank of Iraq Tower, also known as the Zaha Hadid Tower, is a 37-story building on the banks of the Tigris River. It has an Arabic vibe and will be a symbolic building of Baghdad when it is finished. I was also amused when I saw air conditioner posters around town, featuring Erling Braut Haaland. He is probably unaware that he is used for advertising in Iraq.
Baghdad is not an easy city to summarise. It is a place where grand history, war memorials, decaying buildings and ambitious new construction projects all exist side by side.
Before arriving, I expected history. I found plenty of it. What surprised me most was seeing a city that, despite everything it has endured, still seems determined to move forward.
Part of my Iraq and Kurdistan series
Start with the overview article:
