Moldova, the ultimate hitchhiker’s paradise.

As in so many ex-Soviet states, marshrutkas (small minibuses) are widely used in Moldova. But hitchhiking is also an excellent alternative. The marshrutkas are not the most comfortable; there is little legroom, and they can be very crowded, but they cost next to nothing. However, in certain areas, they don’t go too often, and it isn’t easy to find any timetables. Then it is good to know that hitchhiking is so easy. After a few days in Chișinău, I was ready for the Moldovan countryside.

The first journey

I started this morning optimistic and hoping to see the two spots I had planned to visit. The places were not very far apart, but there was no direct connection between them. However, the first place was the Orheiul Vechi (the Ancient Orhei). Thankfully, marshrutkas ran directly from central Chișinau to there in the morning, and it took about an hour to drive. So I headed to the marshrutka’s starting point, which was next to the big food market. These places are often a bit run-down, but it was easy to find the right one.

Orheiul Vechi

Orheiul Vechi is one of the most popular destinations in the Republic of Moldova. The Răut River winds through the Old Orhei gorge and the picturesque traditional Moldovan villages of Butuceni and Trebujeni. Since this was in mid-October, it was far off the tourist season. So, it was another couple and I who got off at this bus stop. And I never saw the couple again. So during my hike here, I was all by myself.

The Cave monastery

Orheiul Vechi is a very unique place with its cave churches and monasteries carved into the natural limestone ridge and cliffs above the Răut River. The Old Orhei cave monasteries provided a safe place for monks to worship and live for hundreds of years. The Cave Monastery was my first stop on my hike. And the door was closed, but not locked, when I reached it. There was no one to see anywhere. I tried the door handle, and the door opened. Then I looked into a long tunnel with stairs going downwards. So I started my way down the stairs.

I saw someone moving around down there, and I walked down. It was a monk; he did not speak any English. I had read before that it was not allowed to take photos inside, but when I asked, he nodded that it was ok. He also pointed down another stair, and I walked down, and here you could see cells carved out in the mountain for the monks who used to live here. It isn’t easy in our society to understand how people could choose to live like this.

I walked up the stairs again, and there was a door leading out on a landing. Almost like a mountain shelf, where you could walk out, and it had an excellent view. After this, I was ready to leave, and with a little tip, I was heading up the long stairs again.

Hiking the horseshoe

When I looked up Google Maps, I could not find an easy route between the two villages, Butuceni and Trebujeni. It said I had to walk the road. However, from where I was at the top of the gorge, I could see an obvious hiking trail, and I could not understand why it would take me around the whole valley. And after a while, I noticed minor signs showing the route called the Horseshoe. It took me about one hour to walk the entire round, and it was pretty windy at the top.

Time to Hitchhike

The view was fantastic, I can only imagine how it would look on a sunny day. I reached the other village and just passed through it. I wanted to head on, because I did not know how long it would take to get a ride. But first, I passed through a long series of caves and saw a 14th-century Tatar Bath ruin. Now I was ready for hitchhiking, and the second car stopped. It was a woman, and she was going more than half of the way I was heading, and she was going to pass a very convenient junction. What I have read is that it is normal to give some petrol money when you hitchhike, but the woman did not want any.

In the junction I mentioned, this monument was erected. Close by the highway, to remind people not to drink and drive. Now I was ready for my second leg on my journey. I saw a bus stop with some people waiting. I went over there and asked if a marshrutka would pass where I was going, and a lady said yes. However, before the marshrutka arrived, two young guys stopped to ask if anyone wanted a ride, so I jumped in, and fifteen minutes later, I had reached my second destination.

Mănăstirea Curchi

It was now only 10 minutes to walk up to Curchi Monastery, maybe one of the most picturesque Monasteries I have seen for a long time. By the lake, with beautiful autumn colours, the bold red colour, and the onion domes. Judging from the parking lot, this must be a popular outing. However, I was almost here all by myself. I saw a couple of priests (monks) having a stroll in the peaceful environment.

I walked around the enclosure for about one hour; it was so peaceful and beautiful in the park. This concluded my day trip for two very different sights, and I could walk down to the bus stop again. It was time to hichhike again, and the third or fourth car stopped, and it took me back a hub where I easily could catch a marshrutka back to Chișinau.