Kabul, a smooth start before the nightmare of my life

Why would anyone go to Afghanistan and Kabul in the first place? It is a legitimate question. My bold answer is that it is possible, and I can. Some also ask why someone wants to climb Mount Everest. The answer is that they maybe can, despite the risk. I do not have the urge to climb, but I have hiked to Kilimanjaro and the Salkantry trek to Machu Picchu. I am a little envious of those who have been to all the countries in the world, but I know I will not be able to do that in my lifetime. But at least I can continue visiting a few new countries every year, and it gives me a bit of a “trill” to go to places that most people have not been to. I also think I have to visit these countries while they are open, and I am “young” enough to do so.

Afghanistan

This has been a long-planned tour; I have wanted to see this country for a long time. I have some Afghan friends in Europe, and when this trip came up when it was convenient for me to go, I did not hesitate. Since the Taliban took over Afghanistan after the embarrassing redraw for the USA and its allies three years ago, it has been reasonably peaceful in the country. No attacks have been made against tourists, and this was the fifth trip that my tour company was doing. Therefore, I felt pretty safe; in any case, this was a risk I was willing to take.

The group

Those who follow me know that I do various trips. Some solo trips and others are with an organized tour company. In Afghanistan, you have to go on a guided tour. There are still areas known to be unsafe and to get a visa; you need a letter of invitation (loi). One of my favourite companies is Against the Compass, based in Spain. They make trips that interest me, like the one I went on to Syria last year. On this trip to Afghanistan, we were twelve people from seven different countries—the youngest, 25, and the oldest, a woman at 83, travelling on her own. It is interesting to join this kind of group to meet people with the same interests, and we all have great stories to tell.

Is it a mission?

There is one thing that also draws me to these backward countries. As an LGBT traveller, I do, of course, put myself in some danger, so I have to be careful. But, since hardly anyone from our community travels there, and the press has no interest in the issue, I can at least go there and inform the outside world what it is like. I have no power to do anything, and who cares what I say, but at least I do sometimes get in touch with local people via apps, and I find that they appreciate that someone from outside sees them and can tell the world what they experience. Am I a travelling queen with a twist?

Now, to Kabul

On the first evening, we arrived at different times from different destinations. We met and went out to have a nice dinner. The following morning, the local guide brought in local clothes that we were offered to buy. I bought a complete outfit but without the traditional waistcoat and hat. Then, we went to the Bird Market, a typical tourist destination. It is not really what I would have picked myself because seeing how this animal is kept in cages in the heath is heartbreaking. I can not judge their traditions, but for me, it is unpleasant. I also felt very sorry for this boy who had his wheelbarrow so full that it overturned, and all the contents fell on the ground. It was very smelly, people shouted at him, and no one helped him.

Sakhi Shrine

After the Bird Market, we drove over the hill in Kabul to the other side and visited the Sakhi Shrine. The shrine is decorated with Persian-style glazed tiles. It is believed that the shrine marks the spot where Muhammad’s cloak was kept on its way to its present location in the Shrine of the Cloak in Kandahar ( a place we never reached). This shrine is divided into sections for women and men. Also, the decorations inside are very colourful.

In the afternoon, we had time to visit the bookstore run by the famous Bookseller of Kabul, who became very famous in Norway in 2002 when the Norwegian journalist Åsne Seierstad wrote this book. Our Spanish guide had read the book and knew the story, so she wanted to show us the shop. I bought the book to feel I could support the bookstore, even though it is now run by another owner.

Tapah-ye Bībī Mahrō

This was our last stop before dinner. It was an extraordinary place and a little bit spooky. In the picture, you can see the enormous white flag with writing from the Quran. This is the Taliban flag; they do not want to use the old Afghanistan flag. It is on a hilltop above Kabul, with a fantastic view. It was very security-controlled when we entered the park. Someone of us asked how we could see if people were Taliban or not; you just do. The way they dress, the long beards, and their hair are surprisingly almost unnatural black. Plus, many men use black coal around their eyes, like the Bedouins in the Middle East.

When we were at the top, our six ladies were the only women in sight. This, of course, attracted some attention. The locals were friendly and smiling, but I could also see some with more reserved attitudes. In the picture above, some in our group were approached by some guys, and suddenly, as you can see, a whole bunch of them gathered. After a short time, one of the armed men came and shouted to them to spread out and said, have you not seen tourists before? A couple of times, some guys came and asked if they could take a selfie with me, and some shook hands and bid us welcome. After this, we ate a nice meal, and our first full day in Afghanistan was over.

The following day, May 17th, 2024, will be a day I will remember for the rest of my life. It is Norway’s National day. I did not have any opportunity to celebrate that here, but it would be one of the most devastating days of my life.