Heraclea Lyncestis is a good reason to visit Bitola.
Philip II of Macedon founded Heraclea Lyncestis, but it was abandoned after an earthquake, and Bitola emerged nearby. From a historical perspective, Philip II was an important king and the father of the even more famous Alexander (the Great). I had this peaceful place all for myself early in the morning.
Arriving in Bitola
Bitola would be the last city I visited in Macedonia before returning to the capital, Skopje. I reached Bitola by bus from Ohrid, and the bus was leaving early in the morning, which again meant I arrived pretty early. The bus stop is in the middle, between Bitola Centre and Heraclea Lyncestis. From experience, I know it is not very likely to get to your room at eight in the morning, so I decided to go directly to the ancient city first. It opened at eight, and I was the only one there for the hour I visited. Having a light backpack when I must bring my luggage sightseeing is practical.
Some dry facts
Heraclea Lyncestis is among North Macedonia’s best archaeological sites. Unfortunately, the museum is not open in the winter; it opens in May, so I did not see the mosaic floors and other artworks they display there. Still outside, one sees the Roman baths, portico, amphitheatre, and the striking early Christian basilica and episcopal palace ruins, with beautiful, well-preserved floor mosaics.
Founded by Philip II of Macedon in the middle of the 4th century BC, Heraclea became commercially significant. The Romans arrived (168 BC), and its position on the Via Egnatia kept it prosperous. In 518 AD, a large earthquake destroyed much of the city and was abandoned for centuries. It is not a large site, and I have been to much larger antic places, like Baalbek last year in Lebanon. Still, well done, Macedonia; keep it nice and keep it open.
The hotel was small and family-run. It was very charming and friendly. The breakfast was excellent. Although I only stayed here one night, it was good value for money. I also got the room, even if I arrived early.
Bitola
Bitola is one of the oldest cities in North Macedonia. It was founded as Heraclea Lyncestis. The city was the last capital of the First Bulgarian Empire (1015–1018) and the last capital of Ottoman Rumelia from 1836 to 1867. Bitola is the second-largest city in the country after the capital, Skopje. It has its charm, but it is also easily forgotten. Heraclea Lyncestis is a big draw for the city, especially for historically interested people.
When I visit old towns in poorer countries, I sometimes see old abandoned houses left to themselves, and sometimes, nature has reclaimed the area. I do not know why I am so fascinated by these houses. Maybe it is because we rarely see them in northern European towns. You can still see they are beautiful houses; it is a shame that they have not been restored. Other times, it is because the style and building construction are so different from what we are used to. The picture below is an example of such a house.
Now, I was ready to go back to Skopje and have a day out in nature, Matka Canyon Trail
