Besseggen, an amazing hike in Norway

Most Norwegians who love mountains have hiked Besseggen at least once, and also, many visitors from abroad find their way up to the Jotunheimen. Jotunheimen Nation Park is between the east and the west of Norway, around four hours to drive from Oslo. Some busses connect from the capital. By being such a popular hike, it is also evident that the hard use is apparent in the mountains. Therefore, it is essential to follow the markings.

Jotunheimen National Park

You can go about exploring Jotunheimen in many ways. For example, you can keep it classic and go hiking through the mountains and valleys on two feet or strap on a pair of skis or snowshoes. You can also climb the mountains; either you are a pro who can go about it independently, or you prefer doing it with a guide. If you are a beginner, or maybe not in the best shape, then the via Ferrata may be just your thing if you like your adventures airy.

The Gjende lake

There are so many entrances to the majestic Jotunheimen mountains; however, when you want to hike Besseggen, Gjende Lake is the starting point. If you come with a car, you must park about two kilometres from the boat dock for Gjendebåtene. They provide a shuttle bus, but be warned; it is pretty pricy. You have so many choices from here, but I will concentrate on how it is most convenient to hike Besseggen. One option is to arrive the evening before and spend the night at Gjendesheim—a lodge with plenty of beds and good local food. The other option is to take the boat in the evening over to Memurubu and spend the night there.

My option this time

This was my third time over Besseggen. Once, I stayed at Gjendesheim; the other time, I spent the night in Memurubu. This time, I was alone and planned to spend the night before the hike in a tent. There are camping spots at the above options, but I spend the night about half an hour’s drive from the parking. Therefore, I arrived at the parking spot just after 6 in the morning to catch the seven o’clock boat. Then, when coming to Memurubu, I had an excellent breakfast in the restaurant before I started the hike. Boats are going several times in the day during the season.

Besseggen

Many also choose to start the hike from Gjendesheim and then take the boat back from Memurubu. However, I think the climbing point on Besseggen is most impressive when you see it from below and spot the people climbing in front of you all along. When you start from Memurubu, the entrance to the hike is to the left of the buildings, and in the beginning, there are some stones built up for steps, but this does not last for very long. But, apart from the area where you climb, most of the hike is on loose stones and rocks, so wear good shoes which provide support to the ankles.

The first thirty minutes to an hour is only uphill, so it can be nice to rest when you reach the first top, look back and admire the fantastic view. I had waffles and the Norwegian “national outdoor chocolate” Kvikk Lunsj on my break. The view from here is breathtaking, and it will become even better. You will have some small, flat parts and ups and downs, but not so hard for the next hour or so. In some parts, you get closer to the edge, see Gjende Lake far down there, and spot the boat.

You can spot the actual Besseggen from far away when you know where to look. You will first pass one lake, Bjørnbøltjønne, and up from there it is; when you round the next top, you see the blue Bessvatnet and the large Besseggen throning before you. Now you come to the place from far away, and it looks very narrow, but you do not feel that. The trick is that it is almost four hundred meters in height difference between the two lakes. Bessvatnet at 1373 meters, and Gjendevatnet at 984 meters.

The climbing

Finally, one reaches Besseggen (the ridge). When you stand below it, it looks massive, and if you look closely at the picture above, you can see several climbers on their way up or down. There were not too many hikers on the day I went, so climbing was pretty easy. The thing is that Besseggen is precisely in the middle between Memurubu and Gjendesheim, so many people start from both sides at nearly the same time in the morning. Therefore, one meets at the ridge, which takes longer since you must climb. The ridge should generally take about 20 minutes to climb.

When you finally reach the top of the ridge, you turn around and see this magnificent view of the green Gjendevatnet and the blue Bessvatnet. This must be one of the top ten views in Norway. If you are frightened of heights, the ridge may be challenging. I have seen people turn at the bottom and return to Memurubu. I have some fright, but if you take your time, don’t stress, and concentrate on where you are climbing rather than watch the view. You should be fine and then enjoy the scenery when on the top.

The cairn at the top

When you start climbing at the ridge, you think you can see the top; unfortunately, it is still quite a bit before you reach the highest point on the hike. However, when you do, you are not in doubt. Here, you find one of the most enormous cairns I know about. You can see your way ahead for a long distance when you have passed it. You can also look down at Gjendeosen, but still, you have about two more hours to hike.

After you have passed the cairn at the top, there is not much more to say about the hike; you have seen the most beautiful sights. However, the view of all the mountains tops in a far distance is still fantastic. Take it easy, enjoy the view, and finally, on the way downwards, you see Gjendeosen. Hopefully, you are without blisters and are content after a beautiful day in the Norwegian mountains. Take a break at Gjendesheim before you leave the area.