Arequipa, I did find some colour in the white city.
Arequipa, the white city, is the second largest city in Peru. UNESCO World Heritage has put its historical centre on the list. Upon founding this grand colonial city, the Spanish decided to use the local white volcanic stone Sillar, primarily thanks to its abundance in the region. This weatherproof white-coloured stone was ideal for constructing the churches and government buildings that characterize central Arequipa.
Peru around
I was travelling alone now, after hiking with a Norwegian group for two weeks, the Salkantay and Inka trek to Machu Picchu. The first days was to Puno and Titicaca Lake, and now I had taken the night bus to Peru’s second-largest city, Arequipa. The bus arrived in Arequipa at four-thirty in the morning, so there was not much to do but wait for the city to start coming alive. I walked an hour from the bus terminal to the town centre. The picture of the Cathedral was taken around six in the morning.
Arequipa
The city is located at an average elevation of 2,300 metres. It has a delightful climate all year round, so the Spaniers found this a perfect spot to build a city. The oldest part is built up on a hill, and here you can see the Spaniers wanted to recreate the small towns of Spain with narrow, winding streets. However, when the city expanded, it got more city planning, with wider boulevards and a more quadrature structure.
The Andes Mountains surround Arequipa, and a series of volcanic cones dominate the city skyline – with Misti as the most overwhelming.
The rebellious city
As in many countries, being the second largest city can often be challenging, like for Arequipa in Peru. Lima, the capital, has the government, and much of the country’s wealth is kept there. This can often provoke cities that are situated far from its centre. This is why the people of Arequipa are proud of being a rebellious city. Many of the country’s demonstrations and uprisings have started here.
Unusual things in the church
I learned two things in Arequipa that may differ from European churches. The first is in the Cathedral, where a wooden sculpture of the Devil is below the pulpit. I heard about it but did not know where it was placed, so I had to look around for a while before I spotted it. It is so popular to touch that it is all shiny and to prevent this, they have put a barrier around it.
The other somewhat local gimmick occurs in the Templo La Compañía de Jesús and two other churches in Peru, one in Cusco. The unusual thing is that in the paintings of the Last Supper, they painted the meat dish to be a Ginnie pig ( the Peruvian national dish). Unfortunately, this painting is hanging so far up, so it is difficult to see, but I guess I must take the guide’s word for it.
Monasterio D Santa Catalina
There are more religious things to discover in Arequipa. And the city’s most famous tourist attraction must be Santa Catalina Convent. And here I came to the colours that I said I found. This convent was founded in 1579 and is considered the city’s most essential and impressive colonial structure. The monastery is like a city within a city, with over 20,000 square metres, and most of the building is now a tourist attraction. While the monastery once housed approximately 450 people (both nuns and servants), now only about 20 nuns live in the northern corner of the building. The bold colours in there are striking.
Canteras de Sillar
Sillar is the whitish volcanic rock that is common in the Arequipa region. La Ruta del Sillar (The Sillar Route) was created to spread knowledge about the history of Sillar in Arequipa, allowing visitors to see Sillar produced at its source. You could see massive statues and wall carvings displayed in this vast quarry. It has also, someplace, been referred to as “little Petra”. Having seen the original Petra last year, it can not be compared, but still, it was an impressive site and an exciting day out of the city.
Chupe de Camarones
My hunt for a soup. I had read about this “world-famous” Chupe de Camarones. And having its origin in Arequipa, this was the place to find it. However, in the first restaurant, they did not have it. The waiter did not speak English, and the menu had no pictures. He recommended another one. That was a lamb soup, which was a big disappointment since I was expecting a fish soup.
The Chupe de Camarones are served with crayfish and shrimp. Often, it contains carrots, potatoes, corn, pumpkins, beans, and tiny fresh cheese squares. The soup also includes the huacatay herb, typical for the Andes region. I did find it the last night in Arequipa, and it did not disappoint. Mission completed in Arequipa.