If you want to reach Macchu Picchu by foot and make your trip sustainable, choose the Salkantry trek before entering the Inka trek. To see Macchu Picchu has been a dream of mine for years. At the same time, I know that culturally unique places are under threat due to climate change, globalisation and other consequences of human behaviour. Therefore, one can opt for this route to reduce pressure on the Inca Trek. This hiking was done together with Norrøna Hvitserk and local guides and carriers.
Salkantay
Soon on our way
We spent four nights in Cusco before we were ready to start our hike on the Salkanty trek, the Inka trek and Macchu Picchu. On one of the days, some of us visited Rainbow Mountain, and we had been to the Sacred Valley and other exciting sites, like this place, where they showed us how they worked the Alpakka wool and their organic dying. Very much for the tourist, yes, but they did have some very lovely products to sell.
Demonstration of Alpakka wool
The drop-off for the Salkanty trek
Finally, the day had arrived, and we were driven by bus to the starting point for the trek. Here we met the chefs and carriers that would follow us through the mountains. The lunch we were served the first day did impress us, so this was very promising. How much excellent food could they make from what they carried during the next seven days?
The final stop for the bus
The hike
The trek is relatively easy to access from Cusco. Unlike the Inca trek, there are no permit limitations. The Salkantay trek can be completed without a guide or tour agency. However, our trip was organised from Norway, and we would also join in on the Inca trek. National Geographic Adventure Magazine rated the Salkantay trek as one of the 25 Best Treks in the World. The route journeys through incredible landscapes with lowland jungles into highland alpine settings with glaciated mountains.
The whole group is in a line.
We would be between 3500 and 4700 meters high for the next few days. Some nights it was below zero degrees, but when the sun rose, it increased and reached twenty degrees most days. The landscape was unique, and until we reached the Inca trail, we met no other hikers.
Camp two, freezing in the morning
Meeting local people
On the third night, we were camping on a field belonging to the local indigenous people. It was arranged that we could visit and see how they were living. They had stone houses with an open stove but no chimneys, so it was smoky inside. We were welcome to take pictures, but their dwellings were inferior, and I did not feel for taking pictures inside.
The indigenous farm
Challenging hike
I can not say I am the most fit person, even though I bike and walk all year round. But I have no problems with my legs and prefer to do these hikes without walking sticks. The Salkanty trial is on natural paths, while the Inka trail mainly comprises paved paths and steps. So, even if the paths we were walking were comfortable to walk on, the way we were walking up and down hillsides could be pretty hard. Therefore, I could feel the strain of the altitude, especially when walking up the hills.
Our horsemen on their way home (not so easy to spot)
The last night on the Salkanty trek
We had hiked around Salkanty, and even if we had not seen the mountain top so many times, we would still see it again in the sunrise a couple of days later. Before the Inka trek, there would also be some changes. Until now, our helpers that had carried all our stuff had used horses. On the Inka trail, no horses are allowed, so now a new group of carriers has come to take over.
Preparing meat and potatoes
A traditional meal
The last night before the Inka trail, the chef wanted to show us how they made a traditional meal. We had bought a sheep from the indigenous farm, and if we wanted to see the slaughter, we could. I refrained. However, the meat and potatoes were cooked on hot rocks underground, where they made the stones extremely warm, put the meat and potatoes on top and covered it with greenery and earth. And it was cooking for 2-3 hours. It did not taste anything special, but seeing their way of cooking was still exciting.
